I am very honored to receive emails from you. I check these often, so please fill out the form below and I will get back to you soon.
If you are trying to reach me on the weekend or after the hours of –
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I will get back to you the following business day.
Thanks,
Joe
The only way to the Father is through the Son.
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Hi Joe- I have a lot of questions and don’t have a FAcebook account. I’m wondering if I sign up for the lifetime membership will I be able to talk to you by phone sometime to answer all my questions, or is it just email support?
Yes! Absolutely! I will be there for you whenever you need me by phone, email or whatever other means we can use.
If I don’t have facebook, what’s the best way to contact you? I just got a platinum membership and have some questions? Can you email me at the address below?
Great to see that you are a believer sharing the gift God has given you! First time DIYS tile on wood. What brand and type of modified thinset to level floor?
Thanks!
Tec Full flex is good
I really want to join, but I have a question. Is the $39.00 fee monthly? If not, how long will I have access to the University? Sorry if I missed this information on the main page. Thank you, Michelle
Its a one time fee and its goid for a year membership. Look forward to helping you!
Your contact form is messed up. Anyway, I was looking for a how to on installing lvp stair nosing on stairs. Thanks for all you do Joe!
I don’t have one but i can walk you through it. Do you use facebook? If you do send me a pic of the stair,the nosing (the bottom side and the top) and a pic of a plank.
Hi Joe. I love all of your videos. I’m going to be installing LVP (Lifeproof) flooring in a couple of weeks and trying to get prepared for it. I have a house that was built in the 80’s and sub floor is flat and level, except for along one wall where the sub floor raises about 1/2″ over about 3′ as it hits the outside wall. I think the rim joist was slightly higher when they installed the subflooring. Will I have a problem with the flooring locking in along this wall? Any suggestions to remedy the issue?
I am installing a schluter kerdi shower system in my bathroom of my manufactured home. The floor is 3/4″ particle board with linoleum on top of that. I know that i can’t thinset my pan to this floor and i am trying to consider my options.
Yeah that’s a tough situation because it’s a manufactured home. So here is what I would do. Buy some 1/4 birch underlayment and put it over the floor and staple it every 4 inches. Then proceed with your installation.
I have a couple questions. 1. Is it possible to transition from laminate flooring to carpet without a transition strip as you are able to to with a glue down engineered wood? 2. is it possible to change direction of laminate flooring from on room to another without using a transition strip. I have heard of possibly using a router.
You can find the carpet to the laminate and staple it. Anything is possible with turning laminate in a different direction.
Hi Joe,
Do you have thoughts on using laminate for stairs (treads and risers). If you think that’s a reasonable application for laminate, do you have some videos at your University on how to do that?
Merry Christmas to you and yours,
I would use laminate on steps but I would not use the stair nose the manufacturer sells. I would use a metal stair nose that comes in multiple colors to choose from. I don’t have videos on steps yet but I could help you through it.
Joe:
Concerning laminate flooring first row. I am installing this in a room with antique barn siding and hand hewn beams on concrete. These beams (four) protrude out from the wall 6 to 6 1/2 inches and my flooring measures 7 1/2 inches wide (12mm thick). Will I run into problems having only about one inch remaining after the cut-out? I could use an undercut saw on three sides of the beams to make the installation much neater and gain some material, maybe 1/2-3/4 inches. The width works out almost perfectly for the room without having to rip the first row. Thank you. Great information for us first timers, especially using screws for the first row holding the floor.
Bryan
There won’t be a problem with that. I would undercut it though to get a nicer look.
Hi Joe my grout joints were 3/16″. And my apologies for what seems like I vented on you.
Hello Joe,
I have been following your instructions and just completed my first bathroom installation. However I was doing the work for a friend (Pastor)) who has been renovating our church with no time for extras. I was given material and instructions by him and followed through on the job. End result looked good to me. Unfortunately he said today I used un-sanded grout on the walls and I should have used sanded grout. The un-sanded grout was for the ceiling now he has to remove the grout on the walls and replace it. I felt horrible and apologized, but he declined my offer of help. (I guess I really ticked him off) My question is does the grout have to be replaced?
Paul,
How is your grout joints? The size of the joint is what determInes if I use sanded or unsanded
Using my username and password, I can no longer get into my platinum account. I was hoping to review the section on tiling a shower curb. Can this please be corrected?
Bob,
You need to access this through Tile University.
I cant log in anymore either. I just signed up a few days ago and now it says “There is no user registered with that email address.” when I went to reset my password.
Hi Joe. You’re site has been very helpful, so thanks.
I am going to lay concrete tile over an existing ceramic tile floor in a 6’x6′ bathroom. I wanted to get your thoughts on the best way to do it. There are some high spots and low spots in the current floor. The high spots/uneven spots are usually where the four corners of tile meet. I have an angle grinder, so I was going to grind those down with a diamond-tip grinder and then fill in the low spots with thinset as you did in your tutorial.
What other things do I need to consider in terms of preparing the old tile floor before getting started laying the new tile on top?
Thanks!
As long as the existing tile is holding strong everything should be fine.. A good way to test this is tapping the tile with a screw driver to see if any have a hallow sound. Just hold it like a drum sick and tap the tile and if it is hallow you will know. another tell tale is if the grout joints are cracking and the grout is falling out.
Joe,
I completed half my project and realized I had some tiles sideways. What’s the best way to correct the problem without losing so many tiles?
What do you mean when you say sideways? How long ago did you install the tile??
The patterns do not match up. When I first looked at the tile I didn’t see an arrow on the back, nor did I notice there was a difference until the third day when I was laying them. So basically all the tile is not facing the same way. The patterns are geometric shapes that do not exactly match up because of this. It was laid starting 6 days ago.
Here is my email if you want to send me some pictures of it.
floormechanics@gmail.com
Hello Joe,
I am installing 1/2 cement board over 3/4 inch plywood for ceramic tile this is a completely new floor so there are no worries about the floors not being even. But my question is for the length of the screws we need to use. Should the screw go completely through the wood out the other side? I’m asking because this is in a trailer and the wood sub-floor is some what open to the elements.
Thank you for your help.
I would use 1 1/4. It shouldn’t go through all the way. You could use an inch if your worried about , no big deal. It will hold just as good.
Thank you for the help.
Another question about installing the cement board. The type of plywood we have is very smooth and the mortar will not stick to the plywood. My question is can we use felt paper if so what type and what thickness? Also if we use the felt paper will we still have to use mortar?
Thin set should be used. It will stick to the floor.
I am installing a porcelain tile floor in a bathroom and need to know how to install the toilet flange. Do I want to install it on the tile — if so, can I drill the holes through the the tile? Or do I want to install the flange on the backer board and cut my tile to go around the flange? Would really appreciate some advice.
Barb,
Install it on top of the cement board. This will take away any height issues. You can add spacers to it also. They look just like the flange minus the connecting pipe. I think they are about $5.